You can rough it in the woods, but these days nobody wants their phone, fridge or lights dying on night one. If you’ve ever typed “camping power outlet. power stations near me” in a panic before a trip, this guide is for you. We’ll break down campground outlets, portable power stations, and how EV drivers can keep both their cars and campsites happily electrified.
The short version
Most campers only need a small 300–800Wh portable power station plus a basic understanding of campground power (15/30/50 amp). EV owners should plan ahead for Level 2 charging stops and treat a portable power station as backup for camp, not as their main way to charge the car.
Why camping power matters more than ever
Camping used to mean a flashlight, a cooler and a prayer. Today it’s LED string lights, induction cooktops, camera gear, drones, CPAP machines, e-bikes and yes, electric vehicles. All of that runs on electrons. When you actually sit down and tally up watts and watt‑hours, you realize how fragile your weekend becomes if power is an afterthought.
Camping & off‑grid power in 2025
In other words: the gear has finally caught up with our expectations. The question isn’t whether you can have enough power, it’s whether you understand your options well enough to choose the right mix of campground outlets and portable stations for how you camp.
Camping power outlet basics: 15A, 30A and 50A explained
Walk around any RV park or developed campsite in the U.S. and you’ll see a little metal pedestal with a lid and a breaker. That’s your camping power outlet. Under that lid, you’ll usually find one or more of these three options:
- 15/20A household outlet (120V) – Looks like a normal outlet. Good for small vans, tents, phone chargers and modest portable power stations. Typically 1,800–2,400W available.
- 30A RV outlet (TT-30, 120V) – Three‑prong, curved blade plug. Common on mid‑size RVs. Around 3,600W available. Great for running one A/C and a few appliances, if you manage loads.
- 50A RV outlet (NEMA 14‑50, 120/240V) – Four‑prong outlet. Larger rigs and many EV portable chargers love this. Up to about 12,000W of power available at the pedestal.
Amps aren’t the same as what you actually use
A 30‑amp hookup doesn’t mean you’re always pulling 30 amps. It means that’s the maximum available before the breaker trips. Your RV or power station will only draw what your devices demand, up to that limit.
For most tent campers, the household outlet is plenty, you’ll likely run an extension cord or plug in a compact portable power station and let it act as your hub. RV owners, on the other hand, need to understand 30A vs 50A because it dictates how many big-ticket items (air conditioners, microwaves, electric water heaters) can run at once.
Never DIY campground wiring
Rewiring pedestals, swapping breakers or “getting creative” with adapters is how people start electrical fires. If a hookup looks sketchy, burn marks, melted plastic, missing covers, get a different site or use your own power station instead.
Portable power stations vs campground outlets
Campground power outlets
- Pros: Effectively unlimited energy during your stay, great for high‑draw devices like A/C, heaters and EV portable chargers.
- Cons: You’re tethered to the pedestal; not every site has power; quality and wiring can be hit‑or‑miss; no power on remote sites.
- Best for: RVs, all‑electric cooking, long stays with lots of gadgets.
Portable power stations
- Pros: Silent, clean, can be used miles from the nearest outlet, recharge via solar, vehicle or wall, safe inside a tent or cabin.
- Cons: Finite capacity; you must manage energy; big units are heavy; not efficient for charging an EV battery pack directly.
- Best for: Tent campers, vans, remote dispersed camping, backup when campground power is flaky.
Use both, not either/or
On a powered site, a smart setup is to plug a mid‑size portable power station into the campground outlet during the day, top it up to 100%, then run your lights, fans and small gadgets off the station at night. Quiet, tidy, and your cables stay inside.
How to choose a camping power station
When you search for “power stations near me,” you’ll see an alphabet soup of watt‑hours, surge watts and chemistry specs. Here’s how to translate that into something useful for camp.
Key specs that actually matter
Focus on these four and you’ll avoid 90% of bad buys
Capacity (Wh)
Capacity, measured in watt‑hours (Wh), tells you how long the station can run stuff.
- 250–400Wh: Weekend tent trips, phones, cameras, a small fan.
- 500–800Wh: Fridge, lights, laptops, pump, small appliances.
- 1,000–2,000Wh: Longer trips, bigger fridges, power tools, film gear.
Output (W) & surge
Output (watts) is about how big a device you can run.
- 300–600W continuous: Fans, laptops, lights, some cookers.
- 1,000–1,500W: Coffee makers, induction, hair dryers (briefly).
- 2,000W+: Multiple appliances at once.
Check both continuous and surge ratings.
Charging options
The more ways you can refill, the better.
- Wall (AC): Fastest and easiest before trips.
- Vehicle 12V: Top‑ups while driving.
- Solar: Real freedom off‑grid; look for MPPT and at least 200W solar input for mid‑size units.
Battery chemistry & lifespan
Most modern units use LiFePO₄, which offers longer cycle life and better thermal stability.
- LiFePO₄: 3,000–4,000 cycles to 80% capacity is common.
- NMC/NCA: Lighter, but usually fewer cycles.
Match the station to your camping style
Weekend tent camper? A 300–500Wh unit is usually enough. Overlanding with a fridge and camera gear? 800–1,500Wh is the new sweet spot. Running a family RV off‑grid? Think 2,000Wh and up plus solar.
Best portable power stations for camping in 2025
We’re not here to crown a single champion; camping trips are too different for that. But current testing from multiple outlets points to a few clear archetypes that work brilliantly at camp.
Representative camping power station picks (2025)
Use this as a template for what to look for, not as a shopping list you must follow.
| Use case | Example model | Capacity (Wh) | Output (W) | Weight | Why it works for camping |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ultralight / day hikes | EcoFlow River 3 | ~245 | 300–600 | ~7 lbs | Tiny, easy to toss in a pack, keeps phones, cameras and a small fan alive. |
| Weekend tent camping | Jackery Explorer 300 Plus | ~288 | 300 (600 surge) | ~8 lbs | Great balance of size and power; enough for a mini‑fridge or blender for short bursts. |
| All‑rounder car camping | Anker Solix C800 Plus | 768 | 1,200 (1,600 surge) | 24 lbs | Excellent size‑to‑capacity ratio plus built‑in camp lantern; ideal for fridges, fans and devices. |
| Longer trips / small RV | EcoFlow Delta 3 Plus | 1,024 | 2,400 | ~30 lbs | Fast charging, robust output, can double as small home backup between trips. |
| Big rigs & home backup | Jackery Explorer 2000 Plus / 3000+ class | 2,000–3,000+ | 3,000+ | 60+ lbs | Serious capacity for multi‑day off‑grid stays or as a partial home backup system. |
Prices change constantly; treat these as capability benchmarks rather than exact deals.
Visitors also read...
Try before you commit
Many outdoor stores and RV rental outfits now offer power station rentals. If you’re debating between, say, 800Wh and 2,000Wh, rent the smaller one for a weekend and see if you actually drain it.
How to find “power stations near me” (without getting scammed)
Search engines take “power stations near me” very literally. You’ll see everything from big‑box retailers to gas generators to public EV fast chargers. To narrow the chaos, decide whether you’re looking for a product to buy or a place to plug in.
Finding the right kind of power near you
Buy a power station vs find a plug
Buying a portable power station nearby
- Search for: “portable power station camping near me” or add brands like Jackery, EcoFlow, Anker, Bluetti.
- Check inventory online for curbside pickup at big‑box stores before you drive.
- Compare capacities (Wh) and outputs (W), not just “peak watts” advertising.
Finding somewhere to plug in
- Use apps like campground finders, park reservation systems and EV‑charging apps.
- Filter for “electric hookups” or “50‑amp service” if you’re bringing an RV or EV portable charger.
- Call ahead to ask what outlets are actually at the site pedestal (15A, 30A, 50A).
Beware of too‑good‑to‑be‑true listings
If an online marketplace seller claims a 30‑pound “5,000Wh” station for the price of a cooler, something’s off. Reputable units list clear Wh, W and cycle‑life specs, have real reviews, and come from brands you can spell without squinting.
EV owners: how to stay powered while camping
If you drive an EV, your camping power strategy has two layers: keeping the car charged and keeping the campsite powered. Those are related, but not the same, and that distinction saves a lot of heartbreak.
1. Keep the car charged
- Use your EV’s navigation and charging apps to plan Level 2 or DC fast charging on the way to and from camp.
- If your campsite has a NEMA 14‑50 (50A) or 30A RV outlet, ask whether EV charging is allowed, some parks prohibit it.
- Bring the right portable EVSE (mobile charger) and adapters (J1772/NACS, 14‑50/TT‑30). Never daisy‑chain sketchy cords.
2. Power the campsite
- Treat a portable power station as your “shore power in a box” for lights, cooking and devices.
- Many EVs can power 120V outlets via vehicle‑to‑load (V2L); great for backup, but don’t plan to run a week‑long festival off your traction pack.
- Use efficient DC or USB‑C gear (fridges, lights) to stretch capacity.
Don’t try to charge your EV from a tiny power station
A 500Wh camping power station feeding a 60kWh EV battery is a bucket trying to fill a swimming pool with a straw. You’ll waste a lot of energy converting DC to AC back to DC and gain barely a mile or two of range.
Where Recharged comes in is helping you choose the right EV for the way you camp. Every used EV on Recharged comes with a Recharged Score Report, including verified battery health. That matters when you’re planning regular road‑trip and camping duty; a healthy pack plus a sensible charging strategy beats lugging around another 60 pounds of batteries trying to make up the difference.
Safety tips for using camping power outlets and stations
Stay safe while chasing electrons outdoors
Use quality cords & protectors
Use outdoor‑rated extension cords with adequate gauge (typically 12‑ or 10‑gauge for longer runs). For RVs, many owners use surge protectors or power monitors between the pedestal and their rig to catch bad wiring before it cooks anything.
Match plugs and adapters correctly
Adapters are fine; electrical roulette is not. Use purpose‑built RV and EV adapters and never modify plugs yourself. If something only fits when you force it, you’re doing it wrong.
Check for heat and damage
Warm is normal, hot is not. If a plug, adapter or power station feels too hot to touch, unplug and let it cool. Inspect for melted plastic, discoloration or burn marks before using any outlet.
Keep power stations ventilated and dry
Lithium power stations like ventilation. Don’t bury them in sleeping bags or run them under a tarp in the rain. Use a sheltered, dry spot with some airflow.
Mind total load on RV hookups
On 30A hookups, you probably can’t run two A/C units, a microwave, a water heater and an air fryer at once. Cycle appliances instead of running everything simultaneously to avoid tripping breakers.
Secure cords to avoid trips
Humans fall, kids yank cords, dogs get leashes tangled. Route cables along edges, under rugs or with cord covers, and don’t stretch them across main walkways.
Good news: the system is designed to fail safe
If you overload a properly wired pedestal or power station, the breaker trips. It’s annoying, but it’s also the point. Re‑think your setup, reduce the load, reset the breaker and carry on.
Pre-trip checklist: dial in your camping power plan
One‑page camping power checklist
1. Map your devices
List what you actually plan to power: fridge, phones, laptops, lights, pump, CPAP, induction cooktop, etc. Note which ones are non‑negotiable (medical devices, fridges).
2. Estimate daily energy use
Rough rule: watts × hours = Wh. A 60W fridge for 10 hours of compressor time is ~600Wh. Add up your essentials to see if that 300Wh bargain box will really cut it.
3. Choose a station size
Match your math to capacity: under 500Wh for ultralight, 500–1,000Wh for typical car camping, 1,000–2,000Wh for extended or gear‑heavy trips.
4. Confirm campground power
Before you leave, check whether your site has 15A, 30A or 50A hookups, and whether EV charging is allowed if you plan to plug in your car.
5. Pack the right adapters & cords
Bring the cords you actually need: proper RV dogbones, NEMA 14‑50 or TT‑30 adapters for portable EVSEs, outdoor‑rated extensions, and USB‑C cables for fast device charging.
6. Plan your recharge strategy
Decide how you’ll refill the station: wall outlet at home, vehicle 12V while driving, solar panels at camp, or campground hookups between hikes.
Camping power outlet & power station FAQ
Frequently asked questions
Wrapping up: match your power plan to your trip
The phrase “camping power outlet. power stations near me” hides a simple truth: there is no single best way to power a campsite. A two‑person tent weekend, a 40‑foot fifth‑wheel and an EV overlanding rig all need different solutions. What doesn’t change is the logic. Understand how much energy you actually use, learn what your campground outlets can safely provide, and pick a portable power station sized for the way you travel.
Do that, and you stop worrying about what will die next and start thinking about where you want to go next. And if an EV is part of that picture, choosing one with a healthy battery and a clear history makes planning those trips a lot easier, that’s exactly what Recharged was built for.
